• Pardon the dust while the boys rebuild the site.

    The board will be in a state of disarray as I get things sorted out, for a little while at least.

    The new incarnation is using Xenforo as the system software. It is much like what we are used to, with a few differences. I will see about making a FAQ to help point out the differences for the members.

     

    One IMPORTANT difference for all of us old timers is that the 'mail' system is replaced with what are called 'conversations'/

    There is no 'Inbox' or 'Out box' or 'Sent' folders anymore.

    Think of Conversations as private 'threads' or topics that don't exist in a forum, that you start with another member. NOTE: Conversations can include more than one member if you or someone else in the conversaion, likes.
    Takes a little getting used to but I am sure you all can get a hang of it.

     

    Only a slightly modified default default Xenforo style is available for now. Once the new SAG style is ready it will be available.

    All existing users should be able to login with their usernames and passwords once the site goes up.

     

    If anyone has difficulties logging in please contact me at sixthvanguard@gmail.com.

     

    Thank you for your support and patience. I know it has been a loooong road.

Need you figure experts input...

Die Werkstatt

Company Commander
In my old 1/35th scale modeling group we used to say that figures are
a great way to ruin a nice model. Figures were never my strong point
either, I can make inanimate objects look real enought but figures,
that is a different story. Below you'll find a couple of pics of one of the
tankers for my Tiger 1. I would like some help so I can push my figures
up to the next level, I learned to draw and paint by someone pointing out
my errors and actually teaching me to "see" my work for the first time.
Maybe you talented folks here could do the same thing for me.



 
I like your figure.
I find the thing that most helps really bring figures to life, is the pose.
A natural looking pose will make a mediocre figure look great, and a bad or stiff looking pose will make the best figure look like a doll.
I probably spend as much time deciding on a pose for a figure as anything else I do to it.
 
I agree, its all in the pose. You need to know anatomy and don't be afraid to use your own body. Some poses I see can't be done by a real human body. I also like to go with a dirty look. Fresh out of the package dragon figures look too toyish to me. A good headsculpt is essential. I am no Boot25 on HS repaints, but realism is what you are trying to capture. To me tankers are one step higher than u-boat crews in looks... greasy, smelly and unshaven. German soldiers had great hygiene, but towards the end of the war they looked ragged. Hope this helps some
 
Hey, he looks great to me! You might consider replacing the DML standard shooting hand, but other than that he looks fasntastic.

Brandon
 
Well first off I'm no expert by no means..The figure looks pretty good to me,but if you are looking for the next level..
First off the skin tone on the skulpt does not match the hands..This can be fixed by painting the hands or changeing to gloved hands..The boots could use a little weathering(Those look like newlines??I hate to weather them also.. :) ).. A nice skulpt repaint can (and does) work wonders on these figures (Thanks Sixty for beating that into my head)..I think with a little work this fig can be over the top (I know your Tiger is...)..Hope this helps..

And this is from a person who can't paint a bern....
 
I'll concur that a realistic pose goes a long way in making your figure look "real". These little guys have a lot of articulation. I use it all.

Nobody stands straight up and leaning backwards (unless it's a Ken doll), and very few of us walk around with our elbows sticking out. One of the last things I do before taking a picture of a figure is to squeeze the crap out of him, so his arms and elbows are hanging down and not flapping in the wind.

I also try to make sure he's slouching appropriately, as I'm sure none of us ever listened to our Mother's admonition, "Sit up straight! Don't cross your eyes! Quit picking our nose!"

Your figure looks pretty good, as is. I always try to imagine what my guy would look like after being in the field for a few days (or weeks), without a shower, hot meal, or change of clothes.

To get the proper look to knees and elbows, I spray them with extra hold hairspray, and set them aside with their knees and elbows bent. When the clothes dry, it looks more like the troop has been living in them for awhile.
 
More on the pose thing: Elbows point backwards. When a person is standing up straight, with arms hanging at the sides, the thumbs point slightly inwards; slouchers' thumbs point inwards. People often rest their weight on one leg; that leg should have the knee locked and the other let should be bent, often with the knee pointing a little towards the locked knee with the foot of the resting let a bit forward of the locked one.

For action poses, it helps if you have been trained to fire weapons, because you have been taught how to stand and hold your arms. For those of us who haven't, like me, you have to ask around and look at photographs. When firing a rifle, for example, the trigger arm's elbow is raised to almost a 90 degree angle to the body, while the other arm is held nearly below the barrel, often resting against the ribs for stability.

I like the comment above about squeezing the figure as a final step in posing it, as the uniforms' thickness aren't usually to scale and they tend to bunch up in the armpits and force the arms out in a way that a real human probably wouldn't unless heavily dressed for cold.
 
Head Shot Close-up



I actually did a repaint and I think it looks pretty fair, not great
but good. Thanks for all the other info and I'll give the advise above
the acid test.
 
Nice looking Panzercrewman you have there Rick, I've always thought you were a talented Llama, and look forward to seeing your post's. I'm more of a basher, than a customizer, but I'm very much Into taking picture's. A couple of things that I see that make a figure look very realistic:

Pose/Posture;
When someone puts the thought Into posing the figure In a very realistic maner pertaining to the enviorment the subject may be based on really pays off, It can really bring a figure to life.

Clothing/Cloth good's;
Getting the right look to cloth garment's, and getting them to hang In a realistic manner Is another detail that can bring a figuire to life, the detail of the wrinkle's and weight of the clothing/cloth accessory can really give a life like pespective to a project.

Headsculpt Painting/Real Hair;
Two guys come to mind, Boot25, and James Van Spronsen, what else can be said LOL But seriously, details such as these really bring a figure to life as well when done right, I dream of being able to paint like John, he has such an eye for fleshtone that blows my mind, and the other details he does like hand repaint's with the cuticle detail on the fingernail's, and his work on eye's, just amazing, and then add James real hair, and that's mind blowing life like stuff. Sixty Driver Is another great talented Llama who has a wonderfull article/how to on sculpt repainting.

Gear/Equiptment Detailing;
Try to detail and make the gear look as realsitic as possible, change out any elastic's for cloth or leather, plastic for leather, flock, paint, weather, anything to make the gear look real and not like a toy always pays off. Look at what guys like Mountain Trooper have done with simulating wood.

Weathering;
Try to make your figure look as If he has been, or belongs In the enviorment of which you are basing the project on, but don't over/under do It, you wouldn't see muddied up dirty Fieldmarshall, but a GI who's been out In the field and In combat should be.

Photographing;
Be It a plain backround, or In a scene/dio, try to remove any non scale items, or anything to suggest the figure Is 1/6th from the picture. When using 1:1 backrounds try to pose In such a way as to give perspective and enhance the illusion that the figure itself Is 1:1. Also good lighting Is very important, and can really add to a figure. Try to make use of light and shade to add to the realism.



Hope some of this orgling helps. Good luck with your figure Rick. Enjoy :)
 
Hi,

If i can add my comments.
I would close off the hand holding the toollbox.
Bend the body slightly to the opposite side of the toolbox, as to me it emphasises the weight of the box.
Also slightly bend the leg on the opposite side as well.

Gary
 
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